The nothingness of mid summer made it easier for me to face the reality of leaving the European Alps for relatively isolated Japan. My new home has great terrain and incredible empty powder. But 'The Alps' are just that and if it were winter I am not sure how easily I could have left them behind.

It was the happiest farewell of my life. Two seasons spent in the Alps exponentially progressed my experience level, skill and 'inner’.  And all the time I saw only a fraction of the peaks and valleys that so many people love.

The above picture is what we looked many times in the 06/07 season across the other side of a small low altitude and easily accessed relatively unremarkable valley in Austria. I always planned on attempting the couloirs during spring but spring never came. 06/07 went from a bad mid-altitude winter immediately into an early hot start to summer. That’s still a sore point for me as spring is without a shadow of doubt the best part of winter (ok, so that doesn’t make sense logically nor emotionally for most people, but it does to me). The picture below was what we were touring on and around whilst looking at the above face. It needs to be said that these pictures are minor peaks: low, small and easy. What is significant is that the Alps are full of stuff like this, from east of Salzburg to north of Nice.

More than just mountains

---

Accommodating the uncountable valleys and peaks like these is a skeleton of bigger more serious alpine structures: enormous north faces of vertical rock such as the Eiger. Famous icons of vertical symmetry like the Matterhorn and the monoliths of Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa. They are just the bigger obvious spots that only defeat the multitude of other amazing structures in tourist industry name, but not in quality of experience. Weaving this lifetime of risk together is an array of glaciers slap bang the middle of one of the worlds most crowded and civilised regions. Certainly there are bigger mountains and more intense glaciers to be found on three other continents, but none are as readily reached as they are in Europe. That the Alps are in the centre of Europe is not good from a crowd nor natural preservation perspective. Yet what similar adventure, personal growth, love and inspiration is there to be found so close to any other place of populated suburban life? No much. For that Europeans are lucky.

Chamonix

---

For a change I wont carry on about it. There are plenty of good books that do that already.  In fact, so over-ripe is the its reputation that eyes roll when Cham is mentioned by people like me with excited googly eyes.  It is understandable since the town and surrounds is nothing short of a thumping great tourist mecca overflowing with superficial image and fluff.  It always has been that way, ever since the first scientific adventurers made their way up into the valley and introduced themselves to the work-to-live locals of Chamonix.  From what I read it has been a circus ever since.  I don’t care:  that circus changed my life and if I knew that next year I would die then half of my remaining time would be spent in a place like Chamonix.  A life lived without a season or two in a place like Chamonix is a life less lived.  Sure, there are locations far less crowded and less hyped but nowhere else have I felt such a culture of natural adventure and purposeful risk like there.  Perhaps North Shore Oahu in winter might compare?  Walking through the streets, taking in the ski resort views and drinking in the bars might give you a sense of it, but not a lot.  Don’t be fooled, this is the Mont Blanc Massif so you will never be properly alone, but losing the crowds in the peaks and glaciers does lead you towards the source of all the historical excitement.  Go and see and scratch deeper than the surface and you will know what I mean.  I only engaged the situation and terrain as a relative beginner on very regular weekend and holiday missions,  but I will always go back. If you go then I recommend Argentière over Chamonix and never go during a holiday, especially Easter.

Japan once again

---

I have lived in Japan before but never had the awareness to engage the mountains and myself in the way that the Alps have since taught me. And so going back to Japan is exciting for me as this is the first time I will walk in a circle, the first time benefiting from past experiences the second time round.

From an alpine perspective Japan has plenty. Considering that it is distributed across so many islands and is still collectively very small, the few concentrations of landmass are notably crammed with tightly packed medium sized mountains and big hills. In a few spots there are even instances of some bigger mountains. What’s amazing is that in contrast to the terribly overpopulated land space the real mountains in Japan are all but empty. Plus, in terms of seasonal snowfall Japan is one of the global kings making the European Alps look like a struggling hopeful nervously on the edge of below average.

There are a few better places on Earth for uncrowned mountain terrain covered with meters in of dry powder, however none of them are home to my companion in life and touring partner in the mountains. Unlike recent years when we have both been European tourists it will be a pleasure to now enjoy mountain experiences with her as a cultural local, and me, a returning foreigner. We are both very happy about the coming seasons.

Damian

ps - Switzerland is the king of the Alps.  This footnote purposely give understatement to just how incredible that country can be in all seasons.